Ireland's Sublime West

Joseph Addison, Eighteenth - Century essayist, friend of Jonathan Swift, and co-founder of The Spectator with Richard Steele, travelled a good deal before he settled down in London. Indeed, he took a very grand tour of Europe (as was befitting young gentlemen of good breeding before they did any settling of any kind).


In 1699 he writes that "The Alps fill the mind with an agreeable kind of horror" (Remarks on Several Parts of Italy etc). We find this idea later in the Romantic Sublime of Philosophers and the great Romantic poets, but when one can quote a rational Eighteenth-Century literary figure, I maintain it is best to do so. Anyway, we had a sublime weekend just recently as we all peered over the cliffs at Dun Aengus on Inis Mor, the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, and the cliffs along the Atlantic Coast of the Burren. Some of us were better at peering than others. It was a magical weekend, with good music, fantastic scenery, awesome ruins, and prehistoric sites. This was the last group trip of the study abroad experience in Dungarvan. While students continue to make their own plans for travel to London, Scotland, Croatia, Dublin, and Galway over the next few weekends, we, like Mr. Addison in his later years, are beginning to settle somewhat. There’s finals coming up and papers to do and all the things that keep us grounded to deal with. And yet, there is still much time to explore.

Mercyhurst Students and Faculty Dance with the Locals

3 local Sisters of Mercy, a room full of Irish dance enthusiasts, and some good-natured Mercyhurst students and professors makes for a very good evening. Mix this with generous supplies of tea and pastry, and you have the recipe for a pretty terrific night. This past Tuesday evening was just such a treat for all concerned as will be attested to by the videos.

Turn those ladies gents! Step lively ladies!

Irish Hospitality

In James Stephens’ The Crock of Gold, a character known as the Philosopher meets a family of seven on the road. As luck would have it, the Philosopher is about to sit down to eat. He has travelled a long way, is extremely hungry, and only has a meagre piece of cake. Even so, the Philosopher approaches the family and asks if they will join him. The man who heads the family replies “Why not . . . for the person who would refuse a kind invitation is a dog.” So, even though he has little, the Philosopher commences to divide his small morsel into eight pieces, apologizing about its size. The man, most courteously, eats his piece in 3 small bites instead of gulping it down in one go. He then confesses he has a problem, which is this: after he has eaten of the Philosopher’s offering, he doesn’t know what to do with his own lunch. He says to the Philosopher that he is afraid his lunch will be ruined if not eaten, and suggests it might “not be wasted if you were kind enough to help me eat it.” The man’s parcel of food is large, and so in the end all have a generous and filling meal. After eating, of course, they share stories. This, to me, is Irish hospitality.

We have all heard the Irish saying cead mile failte or 100,000 welcomes. I insist that this is no empty cliché. Like the story above, the warm hospitality of the Irish is extended whether they have little or much. But most interesting to me is how the receiver of the generosity is made to feel important, or as if they are worthy of the gifts given. The Philosopher is made to feel he is doing the man a favour by eating his meal. There is no self serving charity at work on the part of the man or any chance to pity the Philosopher in his need. The motivation for these acts of kindness stems only from a love and respect of humanity and feeling of mutual good will. It is the most generous gift one could receive.


At the Tramore horse races on Saturday, we were given the opportunity to be a part of Irish life that few tourists get to experience. We were included in a circle of Irish race enthusiasts, we were given the chance to meet some legends of Irish horseracing, we were conveyed tips on particular horses, and we were even brought into the winner’s circle to present the awards. I feel we have done very little to deserve this kind of treatment, but our hosts made it seem like the most natural of proceedings.

Last Friday, Jim Snyder and I were given the privilege to attend a weekly meeting between members of the Dungarvan Council and our Mercyhurst students. These weekly meetings are held so that students can tell the council what they need and how they are “getting on” in Dungarvan. The men that attended this meeting gave of their time and energy to make sure the students are having a good experience. While Jim and I have only been here for a week , we have seen so many actions ourselves and heard so many stories from students that attest to how welcomed we have been made to feel. When students asked where they could rent bikes, they were given 4 new bikes to use, free of charge. When they wondered if they could rent a guitar, two guitars were provided to them. They have been taken out for meals, for golf outings, to local schools, and given complimentary tickets to plays, concerts, horse races, and other events. These people of Dungarvan that we have met are truly altruistic. They give help without thinking of any benefit but to the person being helped. They are providing me and those of us visiting their fair city with a lesson on being human and humane. The people of Dungarvan have given us more than we could have ever expected.

Settling In

The weather here has been wonderful, by Irish standards certainly, but also by any standards. It hasn't rained since we arrived; most every day is about 60 degrees for a high and 50 for a low. I have been doing a lot of walking, to class, to the market, and to explore the area. There are some old ruined castles, monasteries, and other interesting things a short walk away. There also is a nearby short beach. The walking makes me feel good. The air is crisp and moist and it wonderfully fills the lungs on a morning walk.

Jim Snyder and I sat in on an Irish speaking class last Wednesday with the students. The students are counting, adding, figuring out Gallic Football scores, singing a song like one two buckle my shoe - except it's about pigs and hens, and learning local phrases and greetings. Of course, the students are picking it up with no problem, while the professors are struggling. When I was attempting to display my learning to the class, I basically called Jim Snyder a woman. The students roared. They knew my mistake.

Today the students and professors who are interested will be guests at a nearby horserace. I believe most of us will be going as the guests of the town mayor, city manager, local high school principal, and other dignitaries. They, of course, don't call themselves dignitaries, they, in true Irish manner call themselves public servants, but they are a dignified bunch to the students and I. Their warm hospitality has been amazing.

Ash Cloud to Hit Everything but Ireland

UK airspace closed until at least 6pm

According to the local news: "From midday today until at least 6pm, there will be no flights permitted in UK controlled airspace other than emergency situations." Heathrow suspended all flights at noon because of the volcanic ash cloud. Dublin Airport has followed suit I'm told. It may be weeks before things get back to normal for international flights. "Looks like we may be stuck here for awhile," I said to my morning class. "Awesome," was their reply.

On the Ground in Dungarvan

I am now in Dungarvan. Indeed, I’ve been here for two days and haven’t posted a thing. That kind of apathy will need to change. After a civilized flight across the pond (there’s a first time for everything) Dr. Snyder and I met in Dublin, and took the day to see the highlights of that fair city. The weather was perfect. A highlight for me was the incredible Yeats display downstairs in the library. There were photographs, manuscripts, books, letters, and about six short films (all free and open to the public). They even had a lock of the man’s hair and the last pair of glasses he wore. We were met in Dublin by the finest of men, Mr. Tom Keith, who graciously drove us to our destination, with stops at Kilkenny Castle, a pub for fish and chips, and a hilltop panoramic view of the Irish countryside as we approached Dungarvan. When we arrived in town, Dr. Federici gave us our keys and led us on a grand tour of the city, our teaching spaces, and our lodgings. Now, having just finished some nice brown bread with marmalade, I’m ready to go for my second day of teaching. Sir Gawain and the Green Knight in the morning and James Stephens after lunch……yes.